Nirmal Purja, the celebrated British-Nepali mountaineer known for his record-breaking ascents, is reported missing after an avalanche struck Broad Peak in Pakistan-administered Gilgit-Baltistan.
Purja, also called Nims Dai, is famed for climbing the world's 14 highest mountains—each over 8,000 meters—in just over six months, a feat completed in 2019 that shattered previous records.
Background and Career
Born in Nepal's mountainous Myagdi district, Purja hails from a family of Gurkha soldiers. He joined the British Army’s Gurkha regiment in 2003 and later the UK Special Forces in 2009. His passion for mountaineering developed during his military service, leading him to begin serious climbing in 2012 after reaching Everest base camp.
His rise in mountaineering fame was marked by Project Possible, where he summited all 14 eight-thousanders in six months and six days, a journey documented in the film 14 Peaks: Nothing is Impossible. This achievement earned him an MBE from Queen Elizabeth II.
Recent Expedition and Disappearance
Purja had initially planned to climb only Gasherbrum II but added Broad Peak to his itinerary to edge closer to becoming the first person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders twice without supplemental oxygen. He successfully summited Gasherbrum II on July 21, 2026.
On July 30, an avalanche on Broad Peak left Purja and nine other climbers missing. Search operations are ongoing.
Controversies
Despite his acclaim, Purja has faced serious allegations. In 2024, two women accused him of sexual misconduct during expeditions in 2022 and 2023. He has denied these claims through legal representation.
Legacy
Beyond climbing, Purja has advocated for the recognition of Nepali mountain guides and established a guiding and mountaineering apparel business. His journey continues to inspire many to pursue their goals relentlessly.
